Fencing Guides

Getting your fencing right is worth more than you might think

A fence does several things at once: it gives you privacy, defines your boundary, keeps children and pets in (or out), and has a significant effect on how your garden looks. A well-chosen, properly installed fence should last 15-25 years with minimal attention. A poorly installed one - rotten posts, weak fixings, no concrete footings - can fail in as little as two or three years.

This guide covers the main fencing types, what makes the difference between a fence that stands for 20 years and one that leans after the first winter storm, and how to approach the whole process as a homeowner.

The main fence types explained

Close board fencing

Close board is the most common and most practical choice for a garden boundary fence in the UK. Individual feather-edge boards are nailed vertically to horizontal arris rails, overlapping slightly to create a solid, private barrier. Because each board is fixed individually, the fence can follow uneven ground precisely, and individual boards can be replaced if they rot or get damaged.

A properly built close board fence on concrete posts with concrete spurs at ground level will easily last 20-25 years. The boards and arris rails may need replacing at 15-20 years, but the concrete post structure lasts indefinitely.

Best for: Garden boundaries, anywhere privacy is important, sloping ground, long fence runs where cost efficiency matters.

Panel fencing

Panel fencing uses pre-made panels - typically 1.8m wide - dropped between posts. It goes up quickly and looks neat when new. The panels are available in several styles: waney lap (overlapping horizontal boards), tongue-and-groove (solid with no gaps), and slatted (horizontal gaps for a more contemporary look).

The main drawback of standard panel fencing is longevity. Waney lap panels are typically made from thin, pressure-treated timber that can warp, split and fail in 8-12 years. Tongue-and-groove panels are more durable. On sloping ground, panel fencing requires stepping (each panel at a different level), which leaves gaps at the bottom.

Best for: Level ground, relatively short fence runs, where speed of installation matters, contemporary slatted styles.

Slatted fencing

Horizontal slatted fencing has become very popular as an alternative to traditional vertical board fences. Evenly-spaced horizontal timber slats - typically 70-100mm wide with 20-30mm gaps between them - give a clean, modern look and suit contemporary garden designs very well.

The gaps mean slatted fencing is not fully private, which can be a consideration. It also needs to be built from properly treated hardwood or composite material to last - untreated softwood slats will discolour and warp quickly. When built correctly, a slatted fence is a genuine design feature rather than just a boundary marker.

Best for: Contemporary and modern garden designs, where you want a fence that looks good as well as providing a boundary.

Trellis

Trellis is not a structural fencing option on its own but works well as a topper on a close board or panel fence, adding height for additional privacy or for climbing plants without the solid mass of a full-height board fence. Garden trellis can extend a 1.8m fence to 2.1 or 2.4m without needing planning permission (the permitted development height limit for most rear garden fences is 2m, but some local authorities treat a trellis topper differently - worth checking).

Best for: Adding height, growing climbing plants, softening the top of a boundary fence.

Timber gates

A side gate that matches your fencing completes the boundary and adds security. A gate needs to be hung on substantial posts - typically 100x100mm at minimum - with proper gate hardware that accounts for the weight of the gate. A heavy gate on undersized posts or inadequate hinges will sag and bind within a year. A well-hung gate on the right posts swings freely and stays true for many years.

What makes a fence last: the post and footing question

The number one reason fences fail prematurely is not the panels or boards - it is the posts. Specifically, posts set in soft ground without concrete, or timber posts rotting at ground level.

There are a few approaches to post setting:

• Concrete mix around the post - the traditional method. The post goes into a hole 450-600mm deep and concrete is poured around it. This is strong and permanent but the timber post is in contact with the concrete and soil at ground level, which is where timber rots first.
• Concrete spurs - a concrete post-spur (a short concrete section) is set in the ground, and the timber post is bolted to it above ground level. The timber never contacts the soil. This dramatically extends post life.
• Full concrete posts - no timber at ground level at all. The concrete post lasts indefinitely. Gravel boards (concrete or timber) at the base keep the fence boards off the ground. This is the most durable approach for close board fencing.
• Metposts / bolt-down spikes - acceptable for light fencing and trellis but not suitable for full garden boundary fencing. They do not have the footing depth or mass to hold a full-height fence in high wind.

When you get quotes, ask specifically about post setting. A contractor who uses concrete posts and gravel boards is building a fence to last. One using wooden posts with metposts is not.

How much does fencing cost in Surrey?

These prices include materials and labour. Old fence removal and disposal is usually extra, though most contractors will include it in the quote if asked. A typical Surrey garden fence of 20-30 linear metres costs between £2,000 and £4,500 depending on specification.

Boundary rules and neighbour considerations

Before you replace or install fencing, it is worth thinking through a few things:

• Whose fence is it? Check your title deeds or the Land Registry entry. A "T" mark on the boundary indicates ownership of that boundary. If it is your fence, you can replace it as you wish. If it is your neighbour's, you cannot change it without their agreement.
• Height limits - in most cases, fences up to 2m high on the rear and side boundaries of a residential property are permitted development (no planning permission needed). Front garden fences are limited to 1m if adjacent to a road. Conservation areas may have different rules.
• Talk to your neighbours first - even if the fence is legally yours, letting your neighbours know you are replacing it before work starts avoids conflict and makes the whole job easier.

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